Mar 15, 2007

 
The History of Riesling Wine by Anne Marie Bates

Think about white wine, what comes to mind? Maybe Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, or Sauvignon Blanc? What about Riesling? Riesling wine's popularity has had it's ups and downs throughout the centuries, but connoisseurs have always known its qualities, ones that transcend popular trends and set it apart from all other white wines. This wine, which can be described as complex yet delicate, has often been associated with "old world" regions, but is quickly becoming known in many circles as "the other white wine."

Riesling wine's beginning is very convoluted. There have been reports of first plantings in Wachau, Austria in 1232, Westhofen in Rheinhessen in 1402, and Alsace in 1348. There is even a story from the 14th century that Cistercian Monks at Eberbach had all of their red vines removed because they feared that their red wines could not compete with French ones and only kept white vines to further the production of Riesling wine. However, none of these have been supported with documentation.

The first documented evidence of it's existence comes from the purchase of six Riesling vines for the amount of 22 soildi bought by Count Katzenelnbogen at Ruesselsheim in Germany from Klaus Kleinfish on March 13, 1435. Then in 1463 it has been documented thatthe St. Jacob Hospice in Trier bought 1,200 'Ruesseling' vines. Next, a reference to a "Rissling wingart' was made at Pfeddersheim in 1511 showing that Riesling's popularity was starting to spread. This notion was confirmed when the Benedictine Abbie in Johannisber, Rheingau was purchased in 1716 by the Prince-Abbey of Fulda. The prince told workers to replace the neglected plants that resided there with 294,000 Riesling vines. And, in May of 1787, Clemens Wenzeslaus, Elector of Trier, proclaimed that all inferior vines be uprooted and 'noble' (Riesling) vines planted in their place.

Riesling was the dominant type of wine in most of Germany at the end of the 19th century, but, in the 20th century, Riesling's popularity took a sharp decline when other varieties were invented, and in 1930, only 57% of the previous amount was planted. However, the "old world" wine has been reborn with the ingenuity of "new world" wine making. Ontario, New Your State's Finger Lake Region, Washington State, Oregon, New Zealand's South Island, Australia, South Africa, California, South Africa, and Tasmania, among others, have started making a new type of Riesling.

In the mid-1800's, Johann Stein came to Australia from Germany and introduced Rhine Riesling. In 1912, Pensfolds Wines purchased over 400 acres of land in Australia, and many varieties of Rieslings emerged. After the invention of the wine cask in 1965 experimentation occurred and sweeter wines were fashioned. In the 1970's sweet, fruity styles of wines such as Gewurztraminer Riesling and Rhine Riesling were created. The sweet new styles of this formerly crisp, citrus wine, assured the wines popularity in Australia.

The origins of the sweet Riesling have been attributed to a legend from Schloss Johannisberg in Germany in the late harvest of 1775. According to the tale, a messenger who was bringing the orders to pick the grapes was robbed and detained. When he arrived at the vineyard all of the grapes were rotted, infected with botrytis, and were given to the peasants, who then made their own wines from them. The high sugar levels of the late harvest rotted grapes maintained their acidity, which is necessary for the production of white wines to age well, and sweet Riesling was born. The botrytis-infected Riesling wines are still present today and are rated by sweetness as Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese respectively.

Although Riesling has been around for centuries, and has been fashioned to suit different pallets, its German beginnings have not been forgotten. In present day, at the Bonny Doon vineyard in California, Randal Graham combines new and old flavors by importing Riesling wine from Johannes Selback in Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and mixing it with his own to create a "remarkable" wine. In fact, a "true Riesling in California is referred to as a Johannisberg Reisling", paying tribute to its old world roots. Another instance of a new twist to an old classic can be found right here in Ontario, where many of the late harvest grapes are being turned into a sweet Riesling ice wine that can go head to head with any ice wine in the marketplace today.

Whether you are a fan of sweet or crisp white wine Riesling offers a choice for any enthusiast. This wine that is centuries old is coming back in style in a big way and will certainly add new life to any social event. Riesling is highly recommended beverage for an adventurous pallet.


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